I only wanted a bagel. Two, if I’m honest, and maybe a third for the walk home, because the walk home from Golders Green is longer than you remember once you’ve already decided you’re starving.
It was mid-afternoon, which in my experience is the correct time for a bagel. Morning bagels are a commitment. Evening bagels are a statement. Mid-afternoon bagels are simply correct. I had the route mapped in my head the way you map a route when you already know it: Carmelli first, then the other one, then the one that isn’t really a bakery but sometimes has them in a basket by the till. I was already tasting the salt.
The first place had a queue, which I took as a good sign. Queues in Golders Green bakeries are not queues so much as temporary communities. You stand there and listen to people ordering things you didn’t know existed, and you feel briefly sophisticated for being in the vicinity of such knowledge. When I got to the front the woman looked at me with the particular kindness reserved for people who are about to be disappointed.
“Bagels?” she said, as if the word itself had become slightly theoretical. “Finished. Come earlier.”
I thanked her, because what else do you do, and stepped back into the road already recalculating. The second place had a sign in the window that said “Sorry, no bagels,” written in the handwriting of someone who has written it before. A man coming out with a paper bag saw my face and said, “They went at half eleven.” He said it the way people announce train cancellations: not unkindly, but with the understanding that the information will not help you.
By the third place I was no longer browsing. I was hunting. The smell was still there, which felt like a personal insult. A teenager behind the counter was rearranging the remaining buns with the concentration of a museum curator. I asked anyway. He shook his head before I’d finished the sentence.
“Everything’s gone,” he said. “Except the sweet stuff.”
I looked at the sweet stuff. It looked back. Neither of us was convinced.
I stood on the pavement for a moment and did the thing you do when a plan collapses, which is to pretend you are considering your options while actually just being hungry. A woman walked past with a bag that clearly contained bagels. I could hear them. She was on the phone, explaining to someone that she’d got the last six, and that next time they should text her earlier. I have never wanted to be someone’s earlier text so badly.
There is a particular hunger that arrives when the thing you wanted was never exotic. I could have had a sandwich. There are shops. There is, somewhere in Golders Green, almost certainly a perfectly acceptable croissant. But a croissant is not what the afternoon had promised, and once an afternoon has promised you a bagel it is remarkably unwilling to renegotiate.
I ended up in the supermarket, which felt like a defeat even before I saw the shelf. The bagels were there, in plastic, looking as if they had been briefed on the concept of bagels but not shown any photographs. I bought two. On the way to the till I passed a man holding a paper bag from one of the bakeries I’d already tried, and we made the small, wordless eye contact of people who understand that one of us has won.
Outside, I ate the first one standing up, which is never the plan and always the reality. It was fine. It was a bagel. It was not, however, the bagel I had walked for, and the difference between those two things is larger than it has any right to be.
Next time I will go at half past ten. I will text nobody. I will stand in the queue and feel briefly sophisticated, and if they have already gone I will at least have the consolation of having been beaten fairly, by people who wanted them more, or earlier, or both.