England's new school food rules ban the fried egg at breakfast and ration the sausage to twice a week, 120 years after the school dinner was invented because the boys were too small to fight.
The standards were published this month and take effect in September 2027 once Parliament nods them through in October. No deep frying, so fish and chips is gone. Sausages, nuggets, ham and anything in breadcrumbs limited to two portions a week between them. More wholegrain, more fibre, two portions of veg a day. At breakfast club, pastries and fried eggs are not permitted, chocolate spread, honey and syrup are banned, and low-sugar jam is allowed.
The state has been feeding schoolchildren since 1906, and it started for the army rather than for the children.
Britain went to war with the Boers in 1899 and could not find enough men. Across the country 38% of volunteers were rejected, for bad hearts, bad sight, bad hearing and rotten teeth, and that was after the army had dropped the minimum height to five feet. In Manchester four in ten were sent home. Ministers looked at the empire and then at the recruits and panicked.
In 1903 they appointed the Inter-Departmental Committee on Physical Deterioration, and its 1904 report said what the teachers had been saying: the children were hungry, hungry children could not learn, and undersized children became undersized soldiers. It recommended free meals for the poorest. A Labour backbencher, William Wilson, got the Education (Provision of Meals) Act through in 1906 over the objections of the Lords.
Bradford ran the first proper trial in 1907. Breakfast and dinner for forty of the poorest children in the city, weighed and measured weekly: porridge with milk, bread and dripping, meat pies and stews. They gained weight in term and lost it in the holidays, and the city doctor wrote it up as proof. By 1914 there were 200,000 children on free meals, and the point of every one of them was a taller boy.
So the school dinner began as a programme for making the working class big enough to be useful, and its tools were milk, dripping and meat, because those were the things that made a child grow.
In 2027 the same state will take the fried egg off the same table, ration the sausage, and add fibre.
The state fed a century of children to make them bigger. The 2027 menu is the first one written to make them smaller.